Hand or machine knitting is a fabric, formed by interlooping yarn. The loops are the "stitches".
August 2011
Question: How can I keep my cables looking even without gaping areas?
Answer: I use the cable needle only for holding the stitches, and I do not knit the held stitches off the cable needle. For example, if I was working a C6B cable, that is 6 stitches in total are involved with 3 stitches held in the back of the work. I would execute the cable as follows: place 3 stitches on cable needle and hold in back, knit the next 3 stitches on the left needle, then place the held stitches back onto the left needle before knitting them, rather than knitting the 3 held stitches directly off the cable needle. Also be conscious of pulling the yarn tighter when you knit the first held stitch. This should help you maintain a consistent, even looking pattern.
Question: Does ply refer to the thickness of the yarn?
Answer: Spun yarns are made of short lengths of fiber called staple fibers. The majority of natural fibers are staple fibers such as the short wool hair fibers from sheep. Spun yarns must be twisted to a certain degree so that the fibers adhere to each other and don't come apart while working with them. Yarns are also classified into simple yarns and novelty or fancy yarns. Simple yarns are further divided into types including a single fiber or strand that is referred to as a "ply". A good example of this type is Malabrigo Worsted. The other types are plied yarns or the number of strands of spun yarn twisted around each other. Plying affects the strength and durability of the yarn.
Not all yarns are plied and plying does not determine weight or thickness of the yarn strand. For example, you can have a 4-ply double knitting (DK) yarn, that is 4 strands twisted together, and a 4-ply worsted yarn, but the weights are different. The 4-ply DK is finer or gives a different gauge than the 4-ply worsted. There is an exception to this; some yarn brands coming from Australia are classified as 4-ply, 8-ply, and 10-ply which actually are fingering, DK, and worsted/aran. Years ago a 4-ply yarn meant a sock, fingering or baby yarn, and some brands still use this term.
Question: Can I just use bigger needles than what the pattern instructions say with chunky yarn and get the same result?
Answer: I deal with a gauge issue almost daily. It is certainly part of the learning process, and rightly so, beginner knitters are generally more concerned with the basics, that is learning to execute the stitches and manipulating the needles. That's fine for the first few scarves, but once you start knitting projects where fit is important, you have to learn to work a gauge swatch before beginning each project.
All patterns and those that you design are written based on the measurements of your gauge swatch. Gauge is simply the number of stitches and number of rows per inch of knitted fabric. The majority of patterns describe gauge as the number of stitches and rows for 4" over a particular pattern stitch, as this is the smallest swatch size that will give you an accurate measurement. The number of stitches and rows per one inch (a simple math calculation, for example 22 sts over 4" = 22/4 or 5.5sts/1) is used to determine the measurements of the knitted pieces. In order to obtain a size specified in a pattern, you have to get the exact gauge as in the pattern, which means making a test swatch of at least 4" with the yarn and needles specified in the pattern. To answer the question, the size is definitely going to be different than the size of the item in the pattern instructions.
Please refer to my article on Gauge or Tension in Help Desk for further information on making swatches.
Question: What does it mean when a particular pattern stitch refers to "multiples" of stitches?
Answer: Pattern stitch books or those that describe different types of knitting patterns are written based on a particular number of stitches and rows that make up a pattern repeat. For example, a simple pattern might say that the pattern stitch repeats over an even or odd number of stitches over a particular number of rows. That is, you would either cast on an even or odd number of stitches in order to get the desired width of knitted fabric.
A more complex pattern might read a "multiple of 8 stitches plus 6". This means if you wanted to cast on more stitches (more than 14 [8 + 6]), for example, to complete 4 pattern repeats, you would cast on 8 x 4 (multiply 8 stitches by 4 repeats) which = 32 stitches plus the extra 6 stitches, giving a total of 38 stitches.
September 2011
Question: I seem to only like yarns that feel very soft. Is this type of yarn always the best option?
Answer: The softness of yarn is mainly determined by two factors; the properties of the fiber itself, and how the fiber is processed into yarn. Generally, the finer and shorter the fiber, the softer the yarn feels. The fine wool hair fibers from sheep breeds like Merino and Corriedale are the softest. Typically, the undercoat hair fibers such as Cashmere (Kashmir goats) and Qiviut (muskox) are very soft.
When processing a fiber into yarn, blending different fibers together can make the yarn soft; for example blending cashmere and merino wool. The amount of twist, that is whether or not the final strand is loosely or tightly twisted also affects the hand of the yarn. Generally, a loosely twisted yarn feels soft with a spongy texture, than one which is tightly twisted. Also yarns with only a single strand often feel softer than a plied yarn. The plied yarn tends to be firm and dense. Some chemical finishes used in manufacturing can affect softness, particularly superwash wool. In order to make the wool machine washable the scales are removed, hence the yarn feels slippery and may feel softer.
There are trade-offs when using a soft yarn. Low twist yarns will often pill more, particularly if knitted in a loose construction. Soft yarns have a tendency to drape (which you may desire) and stretch, as the yarn is slippery causing the fibers to glide over each other rather than grip together. There is also the tendency to split the yarn while knitting, potentially creating an uneven texture. If you are knitting structured garments you would want yarns that are firm and contribute to shaping not work against it. Firmer, denser, and coarser yarns are also wonderful for colorwork, such as Fairisle, where you want the stitches to grip each other, so the color changes are not noticeable. I also think coarser, firmer yarns are best for outerwear garments, those worn over top of clothes and accessories like handbags. They will maintain their shape, resist pilling, and will last many, many years.
With experience, we tend to challenge ourselves, so learn to consider the nature of the project, or what your expectations are for the knitted item. Asking yourself a variety of questions will assist you in determining what you want from the project. Questions such as: How much abrasion or wear and tear will it get? Who is the item for? How is the piece worn, next to the skin or over top of clothes? Do you want it to be easy care? How structured is the piece? You want a slouchy hat; will it drape? You want durable boot socks; what will give minimal pilling?
Play with the yarn when you make the gauge swatch, and not only will you obtain the correct gauge, but you will get a better feel as to what the yarn can do for you. Wash the swatch, as washing can have an affect on the feel and durability of the yarn. There is a vast variety of yarns in the marketplace. Explore the types and determine the appropriateness of the yarn to your project. Softness is not always the best option.
Question: With no schematic shown in a pattern, how do I calculate the measurements for the pieces?
Answer: All pattern measurements are based on the gauge given, requiring simple math skills. For example, the back of a sweater requires you to cast on 64 stitches and work 60 rows to the beginning of the armhole. The gauge is 18 stitches and 24 rows in stockinette stitch over 4" or 10cm using 5mm needles. Therefore 18 divided by 4=4.5sts/one inch or 1.8sts/one cm and 24 divided by 4=6rows/one inch or 2.4r/one cm. In our example, the width of the back should measure 64 divided by 4.5sts/1"=14.2" or 35.5cm(64/1.8). The length of the back to the armhole measures 60/6=10" or 25cm(60/2.4).
You can use these simple math calculations for any other areas, such as for the shoulder width or armhole length. Just remember that the stitch gauge determines the width of the piece and the row gauge determines the length.
Question: How do I tighten the last loop when binding off so it looks neat, not loose?
Answer: Binding off the final stitch often leaves a loose loop. Here is a tip to tighten up this loose loop. Bind off until one stitch remains on the left needle. Slip this stitch to your right needle. Insert the tip of the left needle into the left loop of the stitch one row below the slipped stitch. Move the slipped stitch back to the right needle (the picked up loop and slipped stitch are now on the left needle). Work the slipped stitch and the picked up loop together and bind off last stitch on right needle. Cut yarn and pull through as with a regular bind off.
I was in Starbuck's this morning and noticed two ladies perusing a prayer shawl book. It gave me pleasure to witness an intense discussion about a knitting project. I began to reflect on what knitting means to people and why they knit. So this week, instead of answering a question I thought I would write more of an editorial on knitting.
I often have customers who say "I don't knit well", "I only make scarves", "I only make small gifts", or "I only make quick projects". For me knitting is a passion, and over time I have honed my skill and became knowledgeable about a craft I love. I can honestly say that I have knit almost every day since I started knitting many years ago, even if only for 20 minutes per day. So for me, I am as skilled at a craft as an artist of painting is. But because of who I am, doesn't mean everybody is or wants to be at this level. Knitting is personal and should be whatever you want it to be. Maybe it is for relaxation, productive passing of time while watching television, or for the pure pleasure of making a gift for your family and friends. Ultimately, knitting should make you feel good about who you are.
October 2011
Question: I always slip the edge stitch on the right side rows to keep the edge straight and even. Is this necessary?
Answer: Many customers mention doing this for every knitting project. It is usually said when they notice that I don't slip my edge stitches, and they are curious as to how even my knitted edges look. Slipping the edge stitch is a technique used to create a type of selvage, that makes picking up stitches easier, but is not necessary. Some pattern instructions will indicate whether or not to slip the edge stitch, if it is part of the pattern. If you are only slipping stitches to keep the edges even, what also works is to pull the yarn tighter when working the first stitch at the beginning of every row. This should keep the side edges even. I would probably get into the habit of pulling the yarn tighter at the beginning of the row rather than always slipping the stitch.
Question: How do I sew in a sleeve when the front and back pieces have no armhole shaping?
Answer: Drop sleeve is the term for this type of sleeve style, and there is typically no armhole or sleeve cap shaping, that is the side edges of front and back pieces are straight from cast on edge to shoulder. To sew in the sleeves, pattern instructions will often say measure down from the shoulder seam, marking this measurement on each piece at side edges, and then sew the cast off straight edge of sleeve between these markers.
To make this measurement more accurate and having each sleeve set in the same position, follow this tip. While knitting, count the number of rows from the cast on edge to the beginning of the armholes and keep record of this number. Mark this last row at both ends with a different colored yarn or stitch marker. Now count the number of rows from the beginning of the armhole to the beginning of the shoulder shaping, if any. Counting rows guarantees that all pieces are the same measurements and fit together when sewn. Mark the back and the front pieces in the same position. When assembling, the shoulder seams are usually done first, and then you sew in the top edge of sleeve between these markers.
If the armhole measurement is not given in the pattern instructions or schematic, you can calculate the measurement. To calculate the armhole length, take the total number of stitches at the top edge of sleeve and divide by the stitch gauge (number of stitches per inch). For example, the top of a sleeve when all the increases are completed has 64 stitches and the stitch gauge is 3.5sts/inch. Therefore, 64 divided by 3.5=18.3", so this armhole is approximately 9 inches in depth.
Question: What does DK and Worsted mean?
Answer: As well as manufactured in different fibers, textures, and color, yarn is also produced in a variety of weights or thicknesses. Yarn strands vary in thickness from very fine to bulky. DK or double knitting describes a light weight yarn. Many manufacturers will put DK on the yarn label, and the gauge is between 22 to 24 stitches per 4" in stockinette stitch with a 3.5 to 4.0mm needle. The gauge is also on the yarn label, but this is just a guideline to help in choosing yarn. This doesn't mean that this is the only gauge possible with this yarn.
Worsted or aran is yarn categorized as medium weight, and the gauge on a 4.5 to 5.0mm needle is approximately 18 to 20 stitches in stockinette stitch over 4". Again, manufacturers often use worsted or aran on the label.
These terms can have other definitions. For example, another meaning for double knitting refers to a technique that creates a double thickness of fabric. The word "aran" as in Aran sweater is a traditional Irish knit garment, typically done in an off white or white color. Hence "aran" is sometimes used to describe this color.
In summary, DK and worsted or aran are commonly used terms in patterns and yarn labels to describe a light and medium weight yarn, each with a particular gauge.
Question: How do I measure a gauge swatch?
Answer: Refer to my article "Gauge or Tension" in Help Desk for making swatches. Before measuring gauge, I recommend blocking the swatch to even the stitches, so the edges lie flat. Pin the swatch on a flat surface, such as a blocking or ironing board, without stretching. Some rib swatches are measured stretched.
Measure the gauge using a tape measure. Place the tape closer to the middle of the swatch, as the top and bottom edges may be tight or loose depending on the knitter's style. First, place the tape horizontally as in the photo, and count the number of stitches across over 4", or measure the full width of the swatch. Calculate the number of stitches per inch.
For row gauge, place the tape vertically, as in the photo, and count the number of rows over 4" or measure the full length of the swatch, and calculate the number of rows per inch.
The easiest swatch to count is one worked in stockinette stitch. With any other pattern stitch, write down the number of cast on stitches and count the number of rows needed to make the 4" or larger swatch. Write down both of these numbers. When measuring this type of swatch, measure the full width and length, then calculate the number of stitches and rows per inch using these numbers. For example, 30 stitches were cast on and 40 rows worked in a particular pattern stitch. The swatch measures 5" wide and 8" long, therefore 30 divided by 5 = 6 stitches per inch and 40 divided by 8 = 5 rows per inch.
NOVEMBER 2011
Question: I always use short straight needles for my projects. Do I have "short needle syndrome"?
Answer: In many instances using short straight needles is a personal choice. If you are making projects with low stitch numbers, you may find it easier to knit with shorter needles. However, by placing the standard 35cm or longer knitting needle under the arm (not in the armpit) will provide greater control when knitting. Always using short needles potentially can cause sore arm and hand muscles, because you are manipulating the needles without a place to anchor or stabilize the arm, as well as decreasing the knitting speed. As one becomes experienced, learning to take advantage of the variety of needles can help to increase your skill level, as well as increase your knitting speed.
Question: My buttonholes always gape after awhile. How can I alleviate this?
Answer: I came across the perfect buttonhole years ago. It is by far my favorite buttonhole to make because it is neat, firm, self-reinforcing, and doesn't leave a hole that grows bigger with each use. It is called the One Row Buttonhole and can be used for vertical or horizontal placement.
Steps in making the one row buttonhole:
Work in pattern stitch to where the buttonhole is to be placed, with the yarn in front of work slip the first stitch from left needle to right needle, then place the yarn in back of work.
Slip the next stitch off the left needle to right needle and pass the first stitch over it, thus one stitch is bound off. Continue to bind off the total number of stitches for the buttonhole.
Slip the last bound off stitch to the left needle and turn the work.
Now place yarn to the back of the work. Using the cable cast on method cast on the number of bound off stitches plus an extra stitch. *That is, insert right needle between the first and second stitches on left needle, work as if knitting a stitch and draw loop through leaving the loop on the left needle. Repeat from * until all stitches are cast on. Before slipping the extra stitch or loop onto left needle bring yarn to the front so it sits between the last two loops; finally place last loop onto left needle. Turn work again.
Slip first stitch from left needle to right needle and pass the extra stitch over the slipped stitch. One buttonhole is completed, so resume pattern stitch and work across the row repeating this technique for all other buttonholes.
Once you get the hang of making this buttonhole, you'll be amazed at how professional they look.
DESIGN YOUR OWN INFINITY SCARF!
This week I've chosen not to answer a question, but provide you with steps in designing your own infinity scarf, as I've recently had so many requests for infinity scarf patterns. It is fairly easy to design your own; just follow these steps.
1. Choose your yarn. Yarn amount is somewhat of a guessing game. In deciding on the amount, think about the size of the scarf and the pattern stitch you want. Approximately 20 - 25" around the neck will give a closer fitting scarf, and by doubling this number you can wrap it around the neck a couple of times, or you can make it longer. Generally, the more complicated the pattern stitch, the more yarn you need. To give you a rough idea, approximately 2 100g balls of chunky yarn with about 100-120m per ball knits a closer fitting scarf (20"). The sales person can help with choosing the amount.
2. Make a swatch. Decide on the pattern stitch and needle size. The yarn ball band gives a guideline as to needle size and gauge, but remember this is only a guideline. Everyone knits to a different tension. The simplest pattern stitches are garter stitch, stockinette stitch, and rib. Remember that stockinette stitch curls at the edges, so you might not like this look. You may have to experiment with a few swatches to get the look you want. Make the swatch at least 4" square to obtain an accurate gauge measurement. Record the number of stitches casted on and the number of rows to complete the final swatch. Also decide if you want to knit in the round or on straight needles, as this affects the direction of the pattern.
3. Measure the swatch and calculate the number of stitches to cast on. Measure the total width of the swatch in the chosen pattern stitch, and calculate the stitch gauge per inch. Row gauge is not as critical, since you can just work to whatever length. Take into account "multiples" in more complex pattern stitches when calculating the number of stitches to cast on. As an example, my rib (k1,p1) swatch measures 5" wide and I casted on 25 stitches, therefore, 25 divided by 5 = 5 sts/1"; the stitch gauge. Now, I want my scarf to be 10" wide and 45" long; multiply gauge of 5 sts x 10" = 50 sts. With garter stitch you can just go ahead and cast on 50 sts. In my example with the rib pattern I would like a knit stitch at each end on the right side of the work, so I have to cast on 51 sts, as every right side row will be worked as follows: K1, (P1, K1) across to end. If I was working a pattern with a "multiple of 6 plus 3", I would cast on 51 stitches as well, since 8 groups of 6 sts = 48 sts + 3 extra stitches = 51 sts.
4. Work to desired length. Keep in mind when knitting in the round that the right side is always facing you, and this can affect how you knit the wrong side rows of a complex pattern stitch.
5. Bind off in the round or bind off a straight piece, and sew both ends together. Weave in yarn ends. Wash to block. Lay flat to dry.
You are finished the Infinity Scarf!
Question: How do I pick up stitches evenly along an edge, like a buttonhole border?
Answer: Many patterns instruct you to pick up a specific number of stitches along an edge. For long edges, such as buttonhole borders measure the edge dividing it into 5cm or 2" sections. Smaller edges can be divided in half or thirds. Then divide the total number of stitches to be picked up by the number of sections. For example my edge measures 59cm divided up into 11 5cm sections with 4cm left at one end. I want to pick up 150 stitches, so 150 divided by 11 equals 13.6 (13 x 11=143 stitches with 7 stitches left over). Therefore, for each of the 11, 5cm sections pick up 13 stitches, and pick up the remaining 7 stitches along the 4cm section. This will give you an even edge.
DECEMBER 2011
Question: How do I sew in a sleeve with a cap properly?
Answer: Usually the sleeves are attached to the armhole prior to sewing the side and sleeve seams. Block the sleeves and body pieces before sewing. Attach the sleeves after seaming the shoulders, and working the neck edge.
The sleeve should fit into the armhole without trying to stretch or easing it in too much. If there is a pronounced difference in size, the sleeve may have to be unravelled and reworked.
To sew in fold sleeve in half and mark the center top, in this case the center of the cap. Pin this point to the shoulder seam with the right sides together. Then pin the rest of the sleeve evenly into the front and back armholes, matching any bindoffs. I usually use a backstitch for sewing in sleeves, but keep it straight by carefully working along the inside of the last row of stitches. Work the backstitch seam evenly, going under about every 2 stitches.
The following image shows how to do the backstitch; you can also refer to seaming methods in knitting handbooks.
Question: When working horizontal stripes, do I cut the yarn at the end of each stripe?
Answer: Striped colour knitting is the easiest to work, because you don't have to carry yarn across the row. You can avoid cutting yarn after finishing each stripe section only if the stripes consist of a few different colours, an even number of rows for each stripe, and only a few rows per stripe. To avoid weaving in lots of yarn ends, the yarn not in use can be carried along the side edge of the knitting. For example, with two alternating colours of two rows each; at the beginning of the row drop the old colour, then bring up the new colour under the old colour and begin knitting with the new colour. Do not pull the yarn too tightly or the edges will pucker.
If knitting wider stripes of four or more rows, carry the old colour along the side by catching or twisting the new yarn around the old colour every other row. If the stripes are more like large colour blocks, cut the yarn at the end of each stripe section, leaving enough yarn to weave in. Also, too many colours are impractical to carry along the side; for example working with six different coloured yarns, five strands carried along the side would be visible and bulky.
Question: How do I prevent a ladder of loose stitches at the beginning of each needle when knitting with double pointed needles?
Answer: When knitting with double pointed needles you have to pay attention to technique as you knit the first stitch off each needle. Because the stitches are divided evenly between 3 or 4 needles, there's a space created as you move from one needle to the next. The best way to prevent a gap or ladder of loose stitches, is to pull the yarn tight as you knit the first stitch off every needle. Doing so should even the tension all the way around the work. I also hold double pointed needles differently than straight needles. The needle in my right hand is held between the crook of my thumb and forefinger for better control and stability.
Question: I never know how to substitute for the yarn in pattern instructions. How do I go about this?
Answer: Sometimes it is not possible to find the yarn asked for in a pattern, so a substitute is necessary. Firstly, if you want a similar look as the project in the pattern find a yarn that has the same strand width, fiber content, and texture. With a novelty yarn or highly textured yarn it is more difficult to substitute, and if using yarn that is not textured it will look different from the original. What I often do, is google the yarn used in the pattern instructions, and the search should give you some important information; meters/yards per skein, weight or thickness, and fiber content. Sometimes if the pattern is very old, you probably won't find any information, as the yarn has been discontinued. Knowing the meters/yards per skein of the yarn used in the pattern is essential in calculating the required amount, otherwise it is somewhat of a guessing game.
For example, a pattern might say to use worsted yarn. There are lots of manufacturers producing worsted yarn. My pattern example asks for a merino worsted; 10 skeins at 100m/skein. The yarn I've chosen is also a merino worsted at 200m/skein. Therefore, 10 skeins x 100m = 1000 meters of yarn required; so the yarn I want to use: 1000m divided by 200m = 5 skeins of the substitute yarn. If you get an uneven number such as 13.6 skeins, round up to 14 skeins. I hope this helps.
JANUARY 2012
Question: I'm confused by the numbering system of knitting needles. Can you explain how it works?
Answer: I always get customers coming into the store looking for needles indicated in US sizes and not the metric equivalent. As a result, I always ask if they mean US or metric, because there is a difference.
In Canada and Europe, the metric system is used for measurements. The majority of well written American pattern instructions will indicate the US size followed by the metric equivalent. American needle sizes range from 0 to 15 with the diameter increasing as the number gets larger. There are extreme needle sizes such as very fine at 000 and jumbo at 35. Metric needles range from 2mm to 10mm, with extreme sizes as well. As with American sizes, the needle diameter increases as its number does. The metric sizes are more exact, for example US 10.5 can be substituted with 6.5mm, 7mm, or 7.5mm. The following chart shows the US and metric equivalents. Many magazines such as Vogue Knitting will have a needle size chart. Also, you will notice in the chart that UK measurements are included. Needles aren't manufactured using these measurements anymore, but you may have inherited some very old needles in UK sizes.
KNITTING NEEDLES
US METRIC (mm) UK
0 2 14
1 2.25 13
2.5
2 2.75 12
3 11
3 3.25 10
4 3.5
5 3.75 9
6 4 8
7 4.5 7
8 5 6
9 5.5 5
10 6 4
10.5 6.5 3
7 2
7.5 1
11 8 0
13 9 00
15 10 000
17 12
19 15
35 20
25
Question: Which type of needle material is best?
Answer: Needles are the essential tool for knitting. They are manufactured in a variety of materials, and each type has a place in knitting. Needle choice is also personal, as I have many customers who only use one type of needle. So, one type does not stand out as better than another; just like other kinds of tools, certain types can make a task easier.
The common metals used for needles are aluminum, stainless steel, nickel, and nickel plated. Aluminum needles are inexpensive and readily available. Stitches slide smoothly across metal needles. The yarn slips easily off the tips, and may be bothersome to beginner knitters. They also make a clicking noise as you knit. Generally, as straight needles get larger than 5mm in diameter, they are made of plastic or a plastic coated metal core, as they become to heavy to manipulate. High quality stainless steel, nickel, and nickel plated needles are more expensive, but the stitches slide even more smoothly than aluminum, and are almost indestructible. Metal needles hold up best for the smallest of knitting needles used for making lace, as bamboo, wood, or plastic can't be made thin enough without breaking.
Plastic needles are readily found and come in a range of colors. They are the lightest of all needles, particularly in the jumbo sizes. They are smooth, but not as slippery as metal. They are flexible, but can warp. They are made solid or hollow. Some high end plastic needles have a steel metal core for reinforcement. Good quality plastic needles should be smooth and flexible. Cheaper plastic needles can be brittle and break. I like jumbo plastic needles for bulky yarns.
Bamboo needles first appeared in the marketplace, followed by specialty woods such as birch, rosewood, and ebony. Bamboo needles are warm to touch and develop a patina over time from the natural oils in the hands and are quiet to knit. Knitting with bamboo and other woods is slower than with metal and plastic. Some types of cotton do not glide as smoothly as wool with bamboo or woods. Generally, slippage is less with bamboo and woods, and this is desirable for certain pattern stitches, very slippery yarns, or just comfort.
The most important part of the needle is the tip, and the tips vary with the material used and the manufacturer. The tips should be smooth, blunt, but pointy and not so sharp it splits the yarn. Very dull and blunt needles make it difficult to insert the needle. Never knit with damaged tips. Inevitably, they slow you down, work can be uneven, and can snag the yarn.
Experiment with the different types of needles, as they can make certain knitting techniques easier. Most of us will find a type we like best.
Question: Can I stretch my knitted piece to the right size when blocking?
Answer: I've seen many patterns particularly online that say things like "block aggressively", "stretch to block to size", etc. So I love this question, because I get to answer it properly. Generally, blocking is the first step in the finishing process in preparation for sewing. Blocking is the process of wetting or steaming knitted pieces to even the stitches and fibers, flatten and smooth the edges, and give shape to the pieces. The analogy I use is comparing it to pressing when sewing fabric. Some pattern instructions inaccurately describe "stretching" the pieces to the correct size while pinning. This may just be a case of using incorrect terminology. As you are pinning the piece you do stretch it a little as you are smoothing it, but not to a great extent. If you have not achieved an accurate gauge, no amount of stretching and blocking will change its size, and may damage the knitting. See my article "Blocking 101" on the Help Desk page.
Question: I used "raw wool" to knit my piece and to sew it, but the yarn keeps breaking apart. What do I do?
Answer: The yarn you are using has almost no twist, so the fibers break apart easily from continued friction, as you pull the yarn through to sew the pieces. Yarns with a very low twist, and novelty yarns such as boucle, mohair, and chenille should not be used for sewing. Instead use a yarn that is firm, compatible in color and fiber content, and requires the same cleaning technique as the yarn used to knit the item. This should make sewing much easier.
FEBRUARY 2012
Question: I've got a tangled mess trying to knit from a loop of yarn. Help!
Answer: Today, many yarns are sold in a hank form, instead of a skein or ball. The main reason is because many manufacturers are incorporating hand dyeing methods in the production process. It is also cheaper to form a hank by just twisting the loop together after processing than winding into a skein or ball. The knitter must wind the hank into a ball before using. This can be done by a mechanical ball winder, or a simple hand tool called a nostepinne. You can easily make a ball (even a center pull ball) with two hands. Untwist the hank carefully, and you will notice it is usually tied in a couple of places, and one tie will have both yarn ends. Someone can hold the loop between their hands, or you can place the loop on the back of a chair. Slowly unwind from the loop and roll into a loose ball. Some handbooks, such as "Stitch'N Bitch" describe how to wind a center pull of yarn using your hands. The advantage to a ball winder is you get a consistent center pull ball of yarn that doesn't roll around, plus it relieves the tedium particularly with fine weight yarns.
Question: Can I change my knitting style to get the correct size?
Answer: This week I had two customers who wondered if they could change how they knit, that is loosen or tighten up their knitting to get the right size. This is a question about gauge. I continue to deal with gauge problems almost daily. My response is every knitter has their own particular style, and just because you may knit loosely does not mean you are doing anything wrong. Personally, I tend to knit on the loose side. I highly recommend that you learn to make a gauge swatch and adjust the needle size accordingly. It is certainly more difficult to try and change how you knit which will give unpredictable results, rather than learn to adjust the needle size. I guarantee that once making swatches becomes a habit, you will be amazed at the results. I now have "Making a Gauge Swatch", Tutorials #13 and #14 on the Help Desk.
Question: I used a yarn with 40% superwash merino and 60% acrylic. After washing will my baby sweater turn out like a "limp rag"?
Answer: With experience you will get a feel for which fiber types perform best for your projects. Amongst knitters, acrylic yarn has varied appeal. These yarns typically are less expensive and easier to care for. However, acrylic is heat sensitive and pills easily. It can be machine washed, but instead of using a dryer, I recommend laying it out flat to dry. In your particular case, the yarn is a blend, 40% superwash merino and 60% acrylic, offering favorable properties of both fibers. Blends with acrylic and 100% acrylic yarns are useful for baby garments, that require constant washing. There are good blends out there, but requires experimentation. Personally, I would use acrylics for beginner projects and baby items, but not for complex pieces that you spend hours of knitting.
Question: I'm working with circular needles in the round and it is difficult to knit; it is stretching. What can I do?
Answer: When knitting in the round with a circular needle, the needle length from the tip of one needle to the other needle tip, including the flexible wire has to be smaller than the circumference of the knitted piece. In otherwords, you have to have enough stitches on the needle in order to knit without stretching the stitches when joined. For example, if you were using a circular needle to knit a standard turtleneck on a sweater, the needle should be short at 16"(40cm) rather than a long 32"(80cm) needle, otherwise it would be difficult to knit; the stitches would stretch when joined. Switch to a shorter length of circular needle, and this will make your knitting easier.
MARCH 2012
Question: I am making a baby sweater and the pattern is vague as to which decrease to use. I did a skp on the right side for a left slanting decrease. I don't know how to make a right slanting decrease on the left side. Can you offer any suggestions?
Answer: I always work decreases within the edge stitch; the side edge will be even, easier to sew, and look professional. On the decrease row with the right side of work facing you k1, then do an skp or ssk. Skp is slip one stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch, then pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch. Ssk is slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time from the left needle to the right needle. Insert the left needle into the fronts of these 2 stitches and knit them together. Both of these decreases slant to the left and look the same. After you have done this first decrease work to the last 3 stitches, knit 2 stitches together (k2tog); knit the last stitch. This decrease at the end of the row will slant to the right.
Question: For my first scarf, I've tied knots to join in new yarn and cut the ends close to the knot; is there a better way to join new yarn?
Answer: Our first projects are always "interesting"; just part of the learning process. To answer your question, there are a variety of ways to join new balls of yarn. Whichever method you choose, the most important point to remember is leave at least a 6" tail to be worked in later. I am not a fan of tying knots, as they are loose and unstable, requiring them to be pulled or even fixed to maintain tension at the edges. However, if chosen, knots should be untied when weaving into work, and please don't cut the yarn at the knot and leave it. You wouldn't purchase anything with knots allover it; looks unprofessional. The majority of joins should be done at the side edges; but elsewhere is unavoidable when knitting with colour.
My favorite method is to overlap the old and new yarn; this method is described in Video Tutorial #5 Joining New Yarn. As well, Video Tutorial #7 describes Weaving in Ends. Both of these tutorials are on my Help Desk page.
I get some customers, particularly new knitters who just want to purchase a skein or two of yarn, and then say they will come back for more if they need to. Today, I thought I would talk about dye lots and their importance. Yarn is dyed in batches or lots, and the dye although the same colour(s) can vary from one lot to another. Solid colors are most problematic, because a definite line may be obvious when you start knitting with a different dye lot. I have had this happen to me and it doesn't look very good. When I needed extra, and I had no choice but to buy a new dye lot, I have used it by knitting a few rows with the old dye lot, knitted a few with the new one, and add the new dye lot in this manner. You could also work a different dye lot in by using it only in borders, etc. With multi coloured yarns, it may not pose a problem. Also, kettle dyed yarns may not be problematic, but may be a personal choice as to how you want the subtle variation of colour to look. Kettle dyed yarns and hand painted yarns may look quite different from skein to skein. To alleviate any dye lot issues, it is recommended to buy all the yarn you need for your project at once, and add an extra skein than what the instructions call for.
Question: Can I use chunky yarn in a pattern that uses medium weight yarn?
Answer: I have answered a similar question in my archives. I get this same question often, and I would like to address it again. Patterns are designed based on the stitch and row gauge, that is the number of stitches and rows per inch. These numbers are used to calculate the stitch and row numbers required to obtain the measurements for the pattern design. When I am designing anything, I begin playing with swatches with my chosen pattern stitches and yarn; followed by calculating the gauge and then I write the pattern. So if you want to obtain the size in the pattern instructions, you must obtain the same gauge as the pattern. As far as substituting a totally different weight of yarn, I would still begin with a swatch with the needles suggested in your pattern, and see what happens. If you obtain the same gauge, you could certainly make the piece, but chances are the piece will have a different feel to it, that is it may feel firmer than what is desired. That's a personal choice, and you could certainly follow through with the pattern. On the otherhand, if you just go ahead and use the chunky yarn in place of the medium weight yarn without doing a swatch, it will more than likely be too large. Now, as an experienced knitter, you can adjust the pattern by calculating a new gauge with your chosen yarn, and then changing the stitch numbers to obtain the same measurements in the pattern. However, this does require some work, and it may not be to your liking. If truth be known, sometimes I don't like to think about a pattern too much, and just want to knit it for the pure pleasure of knitting, but my gauge is always accurate.
Question: I'm just learning how to knit. Are there certain needles to use with specific yarns?
Answer: As a general rule, the thickness of the yarn determines the size or diameter of the needle. The finer the yarn, the smaller the needle diameter, and the thicker the yarn the larger the needle diameter. The majority of yarn labels recommend a needle size, and this is only a guideline. For example, on double knitting yarn labels, they often suggest a 4mm needle, and on worsted/aran yarn labels, a 5mm needle is often recommended.
When you become more experienced, and knit more challenging pattern stitches, there are exceptions to the above rule. For example, if you want a really lacy, loose look, you could use a larger needle than you normally would with the chosen yarn.
APRIL 2012
This past week I had a beginner come in and she had noticed that a scarf in stockinette stitch curled; so she decided to change to a rib pattern.
Just one of the many things we learn on the knitting road. Every beginner knitter has experienced curled edges, and it doesn't have anything to do with knitting style; it is the nature of certain pattern stitches. Of the basic stitch patterns, stockinette and reverse stockinette edges curl. This can certainly be used as a design feature, for example at the bottom edge of a sweater. A lot of knitters do not like stockinette stitch in a scarf, because of the curling. Garter stitch, seed stitch, and rib patterns all lie flat. In scarf patterns, they are often incorporated on their own or combined with stockinette.
Question: I'm making a hat on circular needles in the round, and I knitted a rib border. Then I knit one round for stockinette stitch, and purled the second round; now I have a row of ridges on the right side. It doesn't look right. What happened?
Answer: Working on circular needles in the round means you have joined your work, so there is no seam. When knitting in the round, the right side of your knit fabric is always facing you. So when knitting stockinette stitch, knit every row, because you are not turning your work to purl on the wrong side, as when using straight needles.
Question: I would like to try a cable pattern for my next project. How do you make cables?
Answer: There are many varieties of cable patterns. Although all cable patterns differ in appearance, a basic technique is used to make every cable. The technique requires a cable needle, which come in a few different styles. I find the cable needles with a bend in the center prevent the stitches from falling off.
Cable patterns are formed by exchanging the positions of two or more stitches. Usually half of the total number of stitches involved in the cable are held on the cable needle in either the front or back of the knitting, followed by working the other half of the stitches off the left needle and then working the held stitches. Stitches held in the front produce a left slanting cable; in the back a right slanting cable.
Cables are described by the total number of stitches involved and the direction the cable leans or twists. For example, a "C6F" or "C6L" means 6 stitches are involved; the first 3 stitches are placed on the cable needle and held in front of the work, followed by knitting 3 stitches off the left needle, then knitting the 3 held stitches. The cable twists to the left. If this cable twisted to the right it would be described as "C6B" or "C6R" . I find cables look better and the needles easier to manipulate, if the stitches on the cable needle are placed back on the left needle before knitting them; rather than knitting off the cable needle.
Question: I really don't like my finished sweater and I would like to take it apart and make something different. How do I unravel it?
Answer: For all the knitters out there, don't be scared to unravel a finished piece. If you don't like a garment, you probably will never wear it; so why waste the yarn when it can be salvaged and put to better use.
First make sure the yarn is easily unravelled. Most yarns unravel nicely, except for boucles, mohairs, and highly textured yarns. How the garment is structured and put together will determine how to begin. Let's say I have a simple pullover with set-in sleeves and a crewneck. You can begin with either the neckline edging, or the sleeves. Working in the seams, cut the hand stitching and remove carefully. It may be unavoidable to cut into the edge. In this example, the sleeves were knit from the cuff up. Undo the sleeve seams, beginning with the edge sewn into armhole. Beginning at the cast off edge of the sleeve, start to unravel, again you may have to cut into the edge to start. Wind unravelled yarn into hanks; you can use the back of a chair to assist you. The yarn will have kinks. Continue by taking out side seams of the back and front, and unravel the rest.
Secure all your hanks in 2 or 3 places with yarn. Immerse the hanks in soapy room temperature or cool water. Swish around and rinse. Hang loops to dry on hangers or hooks; you can weight the hanks (cans of food will work) to help pull out the kinks. When the hanks are completely dry, wind into balls and you are ready to reuse the yarn.
MAY 2012
Continuing from last week's question about unravelling yarn and reusing it; I would like to briefly talk about recycling wool sweaters into new projects. Many nonknitters and knitters recycle existing knits. One method is to begin by cleaning and felting old sweaters (100% wool is best). With felt you don't have to worry about unfinished edges. After felting, cut sections, arrange the sections into various projects such as sweaters, cardigans, blankets and simply sew together with a sewing machine or by hand. Voila, you have a "new" recycled piece!
Question: I've used Galway before and now I'm using Mirasol Miski. I know Galway is worsted, but can Miski be used in place of Galway?
Answer: "Worsted" yarn is a term used to describe a category of yarn; that is a medium weight yarn. It is not the amount or the number of ounces/grams described on the ball band. A lot of magazines now use a numbering system fo
